A haven in the Wild | Tongole Wilderness Lodge

I feel like I know most of the Malawian lakeshore – but I have not visited much of the Central and Northern shores beyond Salima. We had planned to do Nkhotakota; and jumped on the opportunity when we got a weekend free.

We started off on the early morning of Saturday, and were in Nkhotakota by midday. We passed by the Chia lagoon – something I had seen only in my geography books.

It was such a pretty view, and these photos don’t do it justice.

We stopped by the beach first – and headed to “Safari Lodge” for lunch, which was not bad.

In nomore than an hour; we were back on the road, as we had been alerted to arrive at Tongole before sundown.

Tongole is situated within the 1800km square of the Nkhotakota Game Reserve – which takes up more than half of the Nkhotakota district.

You will note, if you are like me, that Nkhotakota is not mapped – at all! I never realised how dependent on google maps I was, till I realise it could not help me in this area.

We tried to find our way to Tongole – and the map showed two roads passing through Nkhotakota Game Reserve from two different sides. I had forgotten that the team at Tongole had given me direction on how to get there.

Upon discovering I could not find the location on the map; I went back to my emails to find the comprehensive description of how to get to Tongole I had gotten from Tionge from Tongole.

Directions

Tongole Wilderness Lodge is located in the heart of Nkhotakota Wildlife reserve which is about 3 to 3.5 hours’ drive from Lilongwe. The lodge is accessible via road or aircraft. It is about 250kms from Lilongwe, 27kms of which is earth road. By air, it takes you only 28 minutes from Kamuzu International Airport.

Driving from Lilongwe, you take the Salima road and branch off to your left at Kaphatenga into Nkhotakota (M5) Road. You get to Nkhotakota town and proceed as if you are going to Dwangwa. The sign post or Nkhotakota Wild life Reserve post are on the left soon, after Lozi trading center.

From the M5, you keep a look out for a sign for Tongole on your left just about 10kms from the Nkhotakota boma. Turn off into the earth road and drive to the reserve gate (8km).

When you reach Nkhotakota town and also when you are entering the reserve, please call or whatsapp Tio or Nasim (contacts at the end of this article). This is important because in the reserve, there is intermittent mobile network, and it helps them know of your whereabouts.

The distance from the Reserve gate to Tongole Wilderness Lodge is 18km, and they request that guests plan adequate travel time so that they arrive at Lodge by 16.00 before dark.

Driving through the reserve in the dark is not allowed and the reserve gate closes at 18.00. They recommend a 4×4 vehicle or a high suspension car as some sections of the earth road are bad for a small car.

Please Note: The speed limit in the Reserve is 40km. Wildlife has the right of way.

We got to the gate of the reserve around 3:30PM, and I got myself mentally prepared for the 18KM journey ahead. 18kms on a dust road will honestly seem like forever, but it ends, eventually.

Please note to keep your windows rolled up as we noticed a lot of Tsetse flies following our car as we drove through the reserve.

Nkhotakota Game Reserve is much bigger than Majete, and we were sad to see no animals loittering around the roads in the reserve.

Tongole is described in so many ways –

“Magical, breathtaking and inspirational beyond words.”

“A truly exclusive experience”.

Tongole is an unrivalled eco-tourism property set deep within the rugged and breath-takingly beautiful Miombo woodland of the reserve.

Arrival

We arrived at Tongole shortly before 5PM, and were warmly welcomed by William and his amazing team, who assisted us with our bags from the car to the reception, and then our room.

At the reception area, we were met by William’s lovely wife, Charmaine, who gave us a brief runthrough of the lodge. Charmaine is very warm lady, and shares much of the history of Tongole with the guest when inquisitive.

I am more introverted than Dave, so for the most part, I sat and listened in in as they chatted away about the history of Tongole.

There is no celullar connection at Tongole – meaning this is a place you go to disconnect complete, and get one with nature. That minor detail had escaped us (even though it was initially communicated by the lodge staff.

The Bold Design | Caring Craft

The lodge was finely crafted in the style of a luxury tree house. It blends perfectly with its surroundings, and rises majestically from the tree canopy to give guests gorgeous views of the Bua River, and the reserve.

Secluded Harmony

I really fell in love with the rooms, more than anything else. All the rooms have decks that give you a view of the Bua River, and brilliant sunset of course. Each room is secluded, affording you privacy and tranquility.

Tongole comprises of three luxurious riverside suits and one exquisite family suite – which consists of two separate units, with an expansive interconnecting deck.

Each spacious, open fronted suite affords complete privacy, sheltered amongst the trees and blending in flawlessly with the unique natural setting.

The suites have either super-king sized double beds, or two singles. It has an open floor plan, with a 700l hand built sunken bat (supplied with running hot water) with a view to the right side of the room, and a lovely shower and a flush lavatory behind it.

I loved the taps the most, because they were kind of antique.

Tea Time

Tongole prides itself on the friendly and personal, yet unobtrosive service.

We had arrived pretty late, and Charmaine told us that any time is tea time at Tongole. My kind of place! We headed to the deck upstairs, and enjoyed the stunning sunset as I had some tea.

After sunset, we went to freshen up, and headed back to the main deck for dinner. The view of the poolside at Tongole in the evening is just to die for. We were also visited by a couple of Elephants who passed by the lower side of the deck.

Our chef prepared a lovely four-course meal.

Tongole has a set menu for both lunch and dinner. They give you two options – and you pick your preference on each of the meals.

We had a hot mushroom soup as a starter, a carrot and beeroot salad, rice and chicken for the main course – and a really delicious dessert.

We had a goodnight sleep, visited by somemore Elephants that kept pondering on the trees outside the room. I was kind of scared, if I am to be honest, and kept my fingers (and toes) crossed that they would not come inside the room.

The electricity at Tongole is solar powered. During the day, you have power all through. In the evening, the solar-charged batteries power up the lodge till around 9PM, and then the Generator takes over. It runs up until midnight – after which all power goes off, and comes back at around 5 in the morning. You have torches in the room, of course, if you must need them.

Adventure and Relaxation

I woke up early, to enjoy the sunrise around the lodge. I walked to the front deck, which is the only place around the lodge where you can connect to the WiFi. I wanted to catch up on some emails before Dave woke up. Charmaine warned me to hurry on it, as the WiFi gets weaker during the day – especially on a Sunday as the use Satellite connection; transmitted from Blantyre.

I had some cold breakfast – fruits and some yoghurt. In about half an hour, I headed back to the room and prepared for the bushwalk.

Dave and I were escorted by a guide from the Lodge, and a Game ranger to a location just about a 10 minute walk from the lodge.

One thing about me is I do not walk – anywhere! The most movement I get is on a treadmill (after which you will find me panting like I have been chased by a rabied dog). This 10 minute walk was a whole work out, but I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Nkhotakota is much different from Majete. It is much much bigger, and therefore the animals are far more spread out. We walked there peacefully without running into wild animals (mixed emotions about that – disappointment and relief).

I was pleased when we got there, to see some crocodiles along the river bank catching some sun. They were at a distance, but looked pretty big.

We returned to the lodge, and were welcomed warmly by Vincent who was waiting for us with some cold towels, and some juice.

We had our breakfast just before going for a boatride. The breakfast is also set – full English; and you only get to choose how you want your eggs done.

I really enjoyed my breakfast – or perhaps I was just really hungry from the walk. We found some cold breakfast set for us, and we enjoyed the salad and yoghurt (again, for me).

For the warm breakfast, we had some baked beans, fried mushroom, toast, onions, and coffee. All these things are served in some gorgeous Nkhotakota pottery utensils, and I really liked that detail.

Untouched Wildlife

We went on the canoe ride shortly after; escorted by the deputy manager Emmanuel and Timothy It was such a relaxing experience, and I found myself really enjoying the scenery around. We spotted some beautiful birds; and saw two baby (2 year old) crocodiles.

Emmanuel, the deputy manager, and chief of Security

We saw one spring up the river, from which I took the liberty to drink from. Always living on the edge!

On our way back, they allowed me to paddle, and I got a go at how not easy it actually is. I got a few tricks down, and can’t wait to perfect my skills the next time I visit.

We wrapped our trip up with lunch on the top deck, and enjoy some fried chicken; paired with some baked Mac and Cheese.