I put out a call via social media for one person from Blantyre to ride down to lower Shire, and experience Sunbird Thawale with me. I got plenty offers from some of my followers, and it was such a hard choice to make.
The first to offer was Lusungu, who eventually backed out as the trip was happening on a working day, and he had to be in office for duties. He did, however keep his word to pick me up from Chileka International Airport, and drop me off at Sunbird Mount Soche Hotel, where I was spending my night.
Of the rest that offered, I went with the person who was a friend to my sister’s friend. I had seen them calling each other “bestie” online; and new if worst was to come worst, I would at least be able to trace her background.
We started off early in the morning, after grabbing breakfast, and it was a lovely, bumpy ride. My person thought I was absolutely insane for picking a twitter stranger for a day out in a wildlife reserve. Honestly, I found myself a little nuts too – but it was so worth it!
She was such a lovely spirit, and we managed to chat the whole way to, and back.
Sunbird Thawale Lodge is a peaceful haven in Majete Wildlife Reserve, one of only two Wildlife Parks and Reserves in Malawi where “the Big Five” can be viewed.
Completely unfenced in the heart of the reserve, the Sunbird Thawale Lodge is itelf regularly visited by wildlife. In the lower Shire valley in the south-west of Malawi, approximately 70 km from Blantyre’s Chileka International Airport, Sunbird Thawale Lodge has four twin-tented chalets, two double tented chalets and one family chalet all ensuite and each with a private veranda overlooking the waterhole. The more luxurious chalet has a unique open-air bathroom built among the rocks with a shower and a sunken bath and views of the floodlit waterhole. The chalets are spaced to offer visitors privacy and an individual bush experience. In the communal lapa (traditional lounge area) and restaurant both local and international cuisine is offered.
THE JOURNEY THERE
Chikwawa is my father’s home district. I remember being quite scared of driving down the long winding road to get to lower shire when I was younger. I have never actually driven myself there alone – but I noted that it is much less scary now, that I am older.
My favourite thing about going down the Chikwawa road has always been watching the descend and appreciating the oxbow lakes.
Growing up, I always wondering what the little bodies of water were. My mother told me they were little lakes that form where a river meanders. The Shire River meandered a lot around that area, and the oxbox lakes are such a pleasant view as you descend the mountain.
I was not sure where Majete Wildlife Reserve is – but Khumbo had been there before, and knew the way. We made a turn right from the main road, just after Belewu. There is a Sunbird sign by the road to guide you.
It was a bit of a journey (est 20kms) from the main road, and it is a gravel road; so the journey does seem longer. We arrived at Majete around midday, and were helped to the Lodge staff and tour guides.
THE SMALL MUSEUM
There is a pretty little museum that holds so many artifacts and facts about the animals in the game reserve. You will find plenty and various type of horns, which all hold stories that I found interesting.
THE MWEMBEZI RESTAURANT
The Mwembezi restaurant is just right after the pool area, from the entrance. It is a pretty small space, that has great views of the reserve and the poolside. It has a mini-bar inside the restaurant so you can enjoy some meals and drinks as you enjoy a good swim.
THE POOL AREA
The pool is pretty big, and this was the most pleasant surprise, because I had not expected Thawale to have a swimming pool. This is everything that the heat of lower Shire needs.
THE ACCOMMODATION
I travel a lot, and am used to fancy accommodation; so it takes a lot to impress me. Thawale on the other hand, did not have to try.
Now I am a black woman at the core, and have absolutely no desire to go camping. The idea of sleeping on the ground makes my back ache. We haven’t even brought up the idea no toilets and running water.
Thawale, bringing you a camping experience, with all your hospitality concerns ironed out.
First of all, the floors are cemented (and all the Africans said amen!) I would call Thawale Lodge the ultimate camping experience for an African.
We stepped inside, and I was convinced this was it! There was a bed! A whole bed!
I did say, all your hospitality needs, sorted.
Now most of the campsite rooms have indoors bathrooms and toilets. There is only one, which has such a stunning outdoor bathroom. If you adventurous, and want more of a ‘camping’ feel to your experience, this would be the room for you.
Seriously! The moment I saw this bathroom, my mind insatntly went back to Kaya Mawa. The clever building into rocks and nature is such a beautiful feeling.
Thawale Lodge also has a family room, which is more convenient for people who would love to enjoy the game reserve, but would rather not sleep in a tent. It is also specifically designed for a family getaway.
This “house” has two ensuite bedrooms, one with a double bed and the other with two single beds.
I has a living room, which is combined with a kitchen, a bar area, and a lovely outdoors.
The bathroom in the master is simply to die for! I was here for the detail! Absolutely yas!
There is also a braai area set outside, to the right of the house – for those who love relaxing and throwing some parties outdoors.
The animals do (like elephants and so on) do pass by the family house and all the tents at different times of the day. Do not be surprised, and be prepared for a true camping experience inside a game reserve.
THE RESTAURANT AT THAWALE
We ended our day with a late lunch at the Thawale Restaurant.
The restaurant faces the game reserve (as does everything at Thawale really), and you can watch the animals as you enjoy the meals.
When you book for accommodation at Thawale – it is full board, meaning that all meals (except drinks) are covered.
The food was amazing. Just everything!
CORPORATE FACILITIES
Sunbird Thawale also has a fully equipped boardroom available for meetings and catering for up to 20 people. A meeting, workshop or special function becomes a truly enjoyable event when combined with game viewing!
THE GAME RESERVE, of course.
EXCURSIONS & ACTIVITIES
Safari Game drive
The Majete safari vehicle, guided by a professional wildlife guide and scout, takes you first to a view spot or hide where you can enjoy the sunset while having a sun-downer and snacks. As the sun dips discover the magic of the onset of an African night.
You will be thrilled by nocturnal animals; hippos grazing by the Shire
River, elephant, buffalo, bush babies, genets, civets, serval, antelope, porcupine and nocturnal birds. You may even get to see predators who are more active at night such as hyena, the elusive leopard and best of all the three lions hunting.
I was sad that I did not get to see all the big 5 , even though the park does have them all. I did not spend enough time in the park, and intend to go there for a weekend so I can do the experience again, properly, this time.
I did manage to see the Elephants for the first time ever, pretty up-close too, and it was such a magnificent view!
Bush walks
Bush walks are conducted by the scouts who themselves cover the reserve on foot during patrols, and thus know the area and the animals found in different habitats. If you are a keen bird watcher, ask to focus your walk on the wealth of birds. Areas along the river systems are particularly rich in birdlife and animals.
Boat trips
When at Thawale, you can cruise the islands and channels of the Shire River and Kapichira Dam looking for hippos, crocodiles or, commonly seen, elephants in the water and riverside birds.
Feel the rapid roar of Kapichira Falls. Evenings are best for the riverside experience. I was simply in awe of the view, from the top.
We really enjoyed
OTHER FACILITIES
Sunbird Thawale offers many other facilities and services to complement your stay including:
• Laundry/dry cleaning
• Free open car parking
• Designated non-smoking
rooms
• Swimming Pool
• Wi-Fi
Thawale Lodge
CONTACT DETAILS
General Manager, Sunbird Thawale
P.O. Box 232, Chikwawa
Tel +265 (0) 999 891 672
Fax +265 999 965 021
Email [email protected]
Website www.sunbirdmalawi.com
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