Fort Jesus - Places to see in Mombasa

As soon as we landed in Mombasa, Kenya, Dave told me we had to see “Fort Jesus”. I found the name quite odd, and did not know what exactly to expect of the place. He insisted, that one does not visit Mombasa, and not see the Fort Jesus.

When I travel – my interest is drawn to 5 things – views, food, people (observing behavior and engaging in conversation), places and stories; in that order.

I like to learn the history of people and places. I have recently become intrigued with humanity, and how far we have come.

I had been nagging him about what activities we would do at the coast, and on most days as we planned for the trip – he seemed just as confused as I was.

We visited Fort Jesus on our last day in Mombasa, as we were about to head to the airport, and I was definitely happy that we did. I did not know the precise definition of a fort, and did not take much interest in finding out. I knew it had something to do with war – but the Jesus name was still confusing me.

We had less than 2 hours to our flight back to Nairobi. I insisted we see it, and our Uber took us there on our way to the airport.

We had at best 15 minutes to check the place out, or we were going to miss our flight (because Kenyan traffic aye!)

I still was not sure what to expect, and I was at least satisfied to know at the sight of the guns that it did have a little to do with war. We paid KSH200 at the entrance, and in no time were inside.

The Story (Wikipedia)

Fort Jesus (Portuguese: Forte Jesus de Mombaça) is a fort located on Mombasa Island. Designed by Italian Giovanni Battista Cairati,^[ it was built between 1593 and 1596, by order of King Philip I of Portugal, to guard the Old Port of Mombasa.

Fort Jesus was the only fort maintained by the Portuguese on the Swahili Coast, and is recognised as a testament to the first successful attempt by a Western power to establish influence over the Indian Ocean trade.

Cairato, the designer of the fort, was inspired by Italian architect Pietro Cataneo, while the master builder was Gaspar Rodrigues. The fort was Cairato’s last overseas work.

Although the design of Fort Jesus is an example of Renaissance architecture, the masonry techniques, building materials and labour are believed to have been provided by the local Swahili people. The fort was built in the shape of a man (viewed from the air) and is roughly square, with four bulwarks at its corners. The fort is considered a masterpiece of late Renaissance military fortification.

Fort Jesus was captured and recaptured at least nine times between 1631, when the Portuguese lost it to the Sultan Yusuf ibn al-Hasan of Mombasa, and 1895 when it fell under British rule and was converted into a prison. After the Portuguese recaptured it from the Sultan in 1632, they refurbished it and built more fortifications, subsequently making it harder for the fort to fall.

The fort was subject to an epic two-year siege from 1696-98 by the Omani Arabs, led by Saif bin Sultan. The capture of the fort marked the end of Portuguese presence on the coast, although they briefly captured and re-occupied it between 1728 and 1729 with the help of the Swahili city-states.

The fort fell under local rule from 1741 to 1837, when it was again captured by the Omanis and used as a barracks, before its occupation by the British in 1895, after the declaration of the Protectorate of Kenya.

Fort Jesus was declared a national park in 1958, and in 2011, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and highlighted as one of the most outstanding and well-preserved examples of 16th-century Portuguese military fortifications. The fort is Mombasa’s most visited tourist attraction.

It is such a unique place in my view. I got to thinking about the wars, and my fascination with humanity grows.

As we were about to head out, we found this shop that you basically walk through as you tour the museum – and my obsession with the pretty colours!

As soon as you get of the Fort – there is a little shopping centre where you can buy some more things like art and everything Kenyan.

I was pleasantly surprised with this little Restaurant, by how nice it is inside. For such a little space – I did not expect it to be that lovely inside. If you are a foodie like me, this would be the joint to stop by as you explore!